Rajastan, the area of India in the north where we visited is known for puppetry and we enjoyed seeing private shows of indian snake charmers and kings while seated in the back room of the puppet maker's shop. (Pam had read in Fodor's that if you go into the shop and look nice you might receive an invitation.
Udaipur is apparently the site where the 1983 Jame's Bond movie "Octopussy" was filmed, and at 7 PM each night multiple venues would show it and there would be the sounds of machine guns and car crashes filling unpaved streets. Since I have arrived in India I am reminded of my experience in Nicaragua, eating in the company of flies who vomit on your food before they eat it to help break it down. (Pam appreciated knowing that during one of our meals.) Our next flight from Udaipur was cancelled due to fog, so we ended up redirected to Mumbai and spent the night there. Pam's cousin took us to a WONDERFUL seafood restaurant called Trishna http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/asia/india/mumbai/restaurant-detail.html?vid=1154654653624 which was actually one of the best restaurants I have ever been to. So freaking tasty with excellent service. I asked Pam to take many pictures of me in front of the restaurant like five times since the meal was so satisfying, and she commented that I previously refused to have my picture taken in front of any monument or attraction during our time in India, but this restaurant is what I really wanted to remember. I definitely did NOT want to remember the ride in the tuk tuk to and from our hotel, although it was a truly amazing experience. I can't tell you how many times were were going straight into oncoming traffic, going down a seemingly one way street, with motorcycles and bikes weaving in and out of the non-existent lanes with cars nearly on top of each other. We actually hit a pedestrian's suitcase at one point and Pam had to hold me inside the open carriage at another point as a sharp turn made my water bottle and her cousin's bag almost fly out of the open carriage. Pammy commented that it wasn't very smart for the mother seated sideways on the motorcycle in front of us to be carrying her baby in this busy traffic, but she agreed that those living in glass houses should not throw stones. (Our situation wasn't so much better.) Pam's cousin prefaced our short stop in Mumbai by saying that the city was originally meant for 1 million people, and now there are 15 million living there. They all seemed to be on top of each other the night of January 10th, and nearly crashing into my tuk tuk. But alas, I am seated barefoot at this internet cafe, alive and well to tell this story. Our next early morning flight was to the beach town of Goa where I am now. Pam, Sumit and I stayed at a comfortable hotel last night and saw a fun Kathakali dance performance at night in which the dancer solicited Pam's and my participation.
Pam and her cousin are taking off today and we have already parted ways. I'm now staying at a remote beach town part of Goa called Mandrem at the same hotel as my cousin Nancy (no, you can't really call it a hotel since it had no electricity or water when I checked in, but it came back on. http://www.ashtangamaui.com/aboutus.html Nancy's a well known yoga teacher who will be leading a retreat in these parts after I leave. I will be attending my own yoga retreat, a few thousand dollars cheaper than the one she's teaching. I'll write more again later! Write me a letter back if you're reading this!!!!! Love, and miss you guys.
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